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Stop three
Al-Madina Souq
Babolat Evo Aero Lite Tennis Racquet: Kilometres of vaulted covered lanes, some of the fabric medieval, and understand that the roof is the entire proposition: shade is free, and a shaded market trades all day where an open one shuts at noon. Aleppo sat exactly where the caravan routes met, and soap, silk and spices moved through here for centuries, which is not luck – that is the best pitch on the whole road. The souq burned badly in 2012. Sections have since been restored and the traders have come back, and I would put that ahead of any monument on this tour. On value: the soap is genuinely excellent and it is made here, which means you are buying it at the only price it will ever be this low. Keep to the main lane.
Sit, sit. Tea first, business after — this is how it is done. Now feel the weight of it: the Babolat Evo Aero Lite, 260 grams unstrung, 275 strung, a 102 square inch head, a 16×18 pattern, balance around 320 mm, flex 64, a 23/26/23 beam, twenty-seven inches, pre-strung. Light as good silk, and it holds its shape.
Aleppo I know street by street, so walk with me. This city stood where the caravan roads met, and that is the whole story: soap, silk, spices, and everybody's money passing through somebody's hands.
Everywhere from the stone glacis of the Citadel of Aleppo in the middle of town to the vaulted lanes of Al-Madina Souq beneath it, the place was built to move goods and keep them cool. That citadel mound has been occupied since at least the third millennium BC, and they found a temple to the storm god Hadad on top of it that stayed in use for something like a thousand years.
A thousand.
So take the racquet, it weighs nothing. The Great Mosque of Aleppo had a square stone minaret raised in 1090 that stood for over nine hundred years, and it came down in 2013; the rebuilding is being done from the fallen stones, each one recorded and matched, which is patience of a kind you do not often see.
The souq burned badly in 2012, sections have been restored and the traders are back in the main lanes. It is also perfect for an afternoon on the terrace of the Baron Hotel, opened in 1911 by the Mazloumian family, where Agatha Christie stayed and where they framed T. E. Lawrence's unpaid bar bill. Now — the racquet.
My best price is my first price.
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