03

Stop three
Dessie Museum
Prokennex Ace Station Tennis Bag (12 Racquet): This was the residence of Dejazmach Yoseph Birru, and it now holds the material record of Wollo and of Dessie's years as a seat of power: the rule of Ras Mikael and his son Lij Iyasu; the Italian occupation of 1935 to 1941, when Dessie was a garrison town on the road south to Addis Ababa; and the last phase of the Ethiopian civil war, when the EPRDF took the city in 1990. It remained a major administrative centre until 1995. Somebody's family furniture is in here doing serious historical work. Mine is in a shed nine thousand kilometres away, doing nothing, and I think about it often.
04

Stop four
Lake Hayq and the Istifanos Monastery
Prokennex Ace Station Tennis Bag (12 Racquet): Lake Hayq: 23 square kilometres, 88 metres deep, sitting 2,030 metres above a sea it will never meet. Istifanos Monastery was founded in the middle of the thirteenth century by Iyasus Mo'a, on what was then an island. He was central to the restoration of the Solomonic dynasty under Yekuno Amlak, and his students carried Ethiopian monasticism outward — one of them, Tekle Haymanot, went on to found Debre Libanos. The monastery still keeps an important collection of early manuscripts. Old books beside still water. That is the exact smell of my grandfather's house, and I was not ready for it today.
<p>Dessie is a highland city at 2,470 metres, strung along a valley in South Wollo about 400 kilometres north of Addis Ababa, and getting anywhere from it involves carrying things up something. That is the job this bag was built for.
The Ace Station 12 Pack holds up to twelve racquets, and the main compartment is fully padded end to end and lined in a bright high-visibility fabric, which sounds cosmetic until you are hunting for a dampener in a dark bag at dusk and find it in four seconds.</p>
<p>The layout is honest and uncomplicated.
Multiple accessory pockets take the small things that otherwise migrate to the bottom — grips, strings, keys, tape. A vented end tunnel takes wet kit and post-match shoes and keeps them away from your frames, which matters more than people admit in a town where the mornings are cool, the afternoons turn over fast and the rains arrive with real conviction.
The padded ergonomic backpack straps are both adjustable and fully removable, so it carries as a two-strap pack up a hill and reverts to a plain shoulder bag when you would rather not look like an expedition.
Black and red.</p>
<p>You will use it everywhere from the climb up Tossa above the town to a court down in Kombolcha, and by the way it is exactly the right shape for the other Ethiopian ritual that eats an afternoon: the coffee ceremony, green beans roasted in front of you, the jebena on the coals, three rounds and no acceptable way to leave after the first.
Twelve racquets and a vented tunnel means you can turn up, get roped in, and still have dry shoes when somebody finally suggests hitting.</p>
<p>Prokennex Ace Station Tennis Bag (12 Racquet)</p>
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