02

Stop two
Galway Cathedral
Yonex Ezone 105 Tennis Racquet: 1958 TO 1965. Seven years, built on the site of the old Galway city gaol on Nun's Island. The gaol went. This came. Architect: John J. Robinson. He took Renaissance, Romanesque and Gothic, put them into local limestone, and finished with a dome forty-four metres high. FORTY-FOUR. It stands among the last great stone cathedrals built in Europe. Inside: a mosaic of the Resurrection, and a side-chapel mosaic showing the assassinated President John F. Kennedy in a scene of the risen Christ, which has drawn comment since the day it went in. Bishop Michael Browne drove the whole project and is buried inside. Consecrated August 1965. Repeat the year.
03

Stop three
Lynch's Castle
Yonex Ezone 105 Tennis Racquet: EIGHTY-FOUR MAYORS. Between 1485 and 1654, out of one family, the Lynches, the most prominent of Galway's fourteen Tribes. This is their townhouse, late fifteenth or early sixteenth century, and it is the best preserved medieval urban tower house in Ireland STILL IN DAILY USE. It is a bank. You walk in, you draw cash, you walk out of a monument. On the facade: the arms of the Lynch and Fitzgerald families, the arms of Henry VII, carved gargoyles, and a panel with the Fitzgerald monkey. Nearby, the Lynch Memorial Window, tied to the story of Mayor James Lynch Fitzstephen, said to have hanged his own son for murder in 1493. Some trace the word lynching to it.
04

Stop four
Collegiate Church of St Nicholas
Yonex Ezone 105 Tennis Racquet: FOUNDED 1320. It is the largest medieval parish church still in continuous use in Ireland, dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra, patron saint of sailors, which is the correct posting for a port. Tradition holds that Christopher Columbus prayed here in 1477, on a voyage that brought him to Galway. TRADITION holds. Documentary support is thin and I do not circulate rumours. The Lynch family enlarged it through the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. In 1652 Cromwellian soldiers stabled horses inside and defaced much of the carving. It holds medieval grave slabs, a rare stone lectern and a font, belongs to the Church of Ireland, and has a market outside every week. FALL OUT.
A currach is tarred canvas over a lath frame and it weighs almost nothing, which is precisely why it survives water that would break something heavier. Same principle here. One hundred and five square inches of head, 275 grams unstrung, a 16×19 pattern, 27 inches long, strung anywhere between 40 and 55 pounds. Big surface, low mass, head light. You do not fight the Atlantic and you do not fight this frame.
Oversize heads are for arriving late and getting away with it, which describes most of my rowing career and probably some of your returns. I cover the court everywhere from a stretched backhand you had no right to reach to a volley you closed on half a second slow. And while you are getting used to that, understand that Galway weather makes this an ordinary Tuesday requirement rather than a luxury.
Galway is a town that knows the difference between what is true and what is repeated. The arch is not Spanish, the castle is a bank, the ring is associated with the place rather than invented in antiquity, and the cathedral is younger than the airport. Galway will tell you all of this cheerfully and then buy you a pint. I like that in a city, and I try to be the same about my own specification.
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