Right. Before anybody admires the stripe, I want to know who sewed it on, because there are eight separate operations in this garment and every one of them was somebody's shift.
Count them with me. One hundred per cent polyester twill — that is a woven cloth with a diagonal rib, tougher than a plain weave and it hangs properly instead of creasing into a map. An elasticated waistband with a metal-tipped drawcord: the metal tip is a separate component, applied by hand or by a machine somebody stands at all day.
Double-stripe taping down both side legs, which has to be laid dead straight or the whole leg looks wrong. Side hand pockets, a welt pocket at the rear right, and rib-knit ankle cuffs, which are knitted separately and joined on. Regular fit.
An embroidered ST monogram at the left thigh.
This is the Archivio Collection, meaning Sergio Tacchini went back into the archive and reissued a heritage design — and I will say it plainly, a reissue is a wage for somebody now, not just a memory of somebody then. It is a proper track pant, made the way track pants were made.
It is not a technical performance trouser.
Colchester is a town where the labour is the whole story and the plaques mostly credit somebody else. The castle is the largest Norman keep anywhere — and it stands on the vaults of the Roman Temple of Claudius, which means one lot of workers built a temple and a later lot hauled their stone up and reused it. Jumbo, the Victorian water tower, took one point two million bricks.
One point two million. Somebody laid every single one, and I would like their names.
One point two million bricks. Not one of them laid itself.
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