The first thing I do in any city is find shade, and the second thing I do is eat in it. A peaked visor is portable shade, which makes it the most underrated piece of equipment in the sport — nobody writes odes to it and everybody suffers without it.
What it is: 100% polyester, and that single fact does most of the work. Polyester in a knit like this is very light, so you forget it is on your head, and it dries fast, which is the whole difference between a visor and a wet towel on your forehead by the second set.
The back is elasticated and adjustable, so it grips without the ridge a hard plastic snap leaves across the skull. The peak shades the eyes and the face, and shading the face matters more than people admit — squinting is fatigue, and fatigue at the end of a long match is where matches go. That is the entire object and it is enough.
It is open on top, so heat leaves.
Vladivostok is a city that eats late and eats well, and it is the end of a very long line. The Golden Bridge first, a single span of cable stays across the Golden Horn bay, and you should walk the approach for the view rather than driving it.
Then Eagle's Nest hill by the two-car funicular, ninety seconds up, and at the top there is the whole harbour laid out — scallops, crab and sea urchin somewhere below you in every direction.
The submarine S-56 next, a wartime boat cut open lengthwise and walked through on Korabelnaya Embankment, where you will see the galley and understand at once that submarine cooks are the toughest people in food. And the railway station, where a platform obelisk marks kilometre 9,288 of the line from Moscow.
Nine thousand two hundred and eighty-eight kilometres.
That is a week of meals in a dining car, and I have views on every one of them.
“Kilometre 9,288. Somewhere on that line is the best thing anybody ever ate on a train, and nobody wrote it down.”
Light, fast-drying, adjustable, shading the face. Now go and find the crab.
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