Thirty years on the same round teaches you that reliability is the whole job. Nobody writes a letter praising the post; they only notice when it fails. The Dunlop ATP Championship is that kind of ball — officially endorsed by the ATP Tour, built for club and recreational play, with Max Core construction and Durafelt HD cloth, an all-surface ball in a pressurised can of three.
It turns up, it bounces true, it lasts. Gulu City is a place that knows about turning up.
We start at St. Joseph's Cathedral, the mother church of Catholic northern Uganda: a long whitewashed mission building with arched colonnades under a red-tiled roof, begun in 1931 by Comboni missionaries, completed in 1941 and consecrated in 1947 as the seat of the archdiocese.
Its greatest chapter came during the Lord's Resistance Army insurgency, when the compound sheltered thousands of displaced people and the night commuter children who walked into town each evening to sleep safely. High on the western wall there is a dimple left by a rocket-propelled grenade, and the Sunday Masses are still sung in Acholi.
Then north among the granite kopjes to Fort Patiko, also called Baker's Fort, where Khartoum slave traders used the rock as a holding depot for captives seized from Acholiland until 1872, when Samuel Baker, serving the Egyptian khedive as governor of Equatoria, took the site, expelled the slavers and built a fortified station to suppress the trade.
Trenches, stone walls and grain stores survive, along with the crevices where captives were held. Back in town, Pece War Memorial Stadium went up in the 1950s for the Acholi soldiers of the King's African Rifles who fell in the Second World War, and since 1959 it has been the stage for northern Uganda's public life.
And Gulu Main Market has been the commercial heart of the north for a century, a lifeline through the insurgency for hundreds of thousands camped around the city, and rebuilt since as a multi-level hall where simsim, shea butter, textiles and electronics all change hands.
You will run through this can everywhere from a hard court in Gulu City to a clay court down in Kampala, five hours south, and by the way, it is also perfect for a slow lap of the market streets afterwards, where the round never actually finishes and nobody expects it to.
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