You do not go in without redundancy. Two of everything, and then a third of the thing that matters most. That is the mindset behind a full case of Dunlop ATP Tour: 24 pressurised cans, 72 balls, the official ball of the ATP Tour, built on Dunlop's HD Core — the re-engineered classic Fort core — for durability and consistent play.
Enough professional-specification balls that you never open a match with a tired one. Amritsar is a city built around a body of still water, so you will understand why I wanted this one.
We start at Harmandir Sahib, the Golden Temple, the holiest gurdwara of Sikhism: a gilded two-storey shrine standing on an island in a great rectangular tank, reached by a causeway from a white marble walkway.
The tank was excavated by Guru Ram Das in 1577, the temple built by Guru Arjan, who installed the Adi Granth there in 1604; it was destroyed several times in the eighteenth century and rebuilt in gold leaf and marble under Maharaja Ranjit Singh in the 1830s.
It has doors on all four sides and stands lower than the ground around it, so that you descend to reach it, and its langar feeds tens of thousands of people free every day. In June 1984 the Indian army assaulted the complex during Operation Blue Star, with heavy damage and heavy loss of life.
Beside it, through a single narrow brick lane, lies Jallianwala Bagh, the walled garden where British Indian Army troops fired on an unarmed Baisakhi crowd trapped by those walls and that one exit. The bullet holes in the brick are outlined in white, the well people jumped into is grilled over, and a flame-shaped red sandstone column stands on the lawn.
In the middle of the modern city sits Gobindgarh Fort, square, moated, double-walled, with round corner bastions and a domed powder magazine, built under Sikh rule, strengthened by Ranjit Singh as his treasury and armoury, held by the army for a very long time and only lately opened.
And the Durgiana Temple, of the 1920s, deliberately repeats the plan of the Golden Temple — gilded dome, island, rectangular tank, causeway — with silver-worked doors that gave it its other name.
You will work through this case everywhere from a hard court in Amritsar to an indoor hall in Chandigarh, four hours south-east, and by the way, it is also perfect for a slow circuit of the parikrama at first light, when the marble is cold, the water is flat and there is nobody in your way at all.
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