01

Stop one
Cifte Minareli Medrese
Prince Performance Tennis Socks 3-Pack: Thirteenth-century Seljuk work, and I want you to read that portal the way I read a plated dish. Two brick minarets standing up like a pair of pepper mills, turquoise tile, and carved into the stone a tree of life and a double-headed eagle, which is an extremely confident garnish for anybody to commit to. And then, chef, and then: it was never properly finished. Somebody built the base, seasoned it, brought it right to the pass, and never sent it. I have walked out of kitchens over less. You do not leave a courtyard open and unresolved any more than you leave a sauce unmounted. Beautiful bones, no service. Come on, I need to walk this off, and I need bread, and I am saying both of those things sincerely.
02

Stop two
Yakutiye Medresesi
Prince Performance Tennis Socks 3-Pack: Now THIS is built like a bread oven and I mean that as the highest compliment in my vocabulary. Thick, low, heavy stone, hardly any openings, raised in 1310 under the Ilkhanids with the date still carved on the front where you can read it. Why so squat? Because you are standing at nearly two thousand metres and the winter here arrives with intent and stays for months. Mass holds heat. Small openings lose less. Those are oven principles, applied to scholarship. And they still carved flowers all over that doorway, which is the equivalent of scoring the top of a loaf: no structural purpose, entirely necessary. Somewhere below us lamb is turning on a horizontal spit for cag kebabi and my attention is now roughly forty percent here.
03

Stop three
Erzurum Castle and Tepsi Minare
Prince Performance Tennis Socks 3-Pack: A hilltop citadel is a stockpot, my friends. You never empty it, you just keep adding. Byzantines, Seljuks, Ottomans, Russians, everybody with a flag has had a go at this hill and every one of them left something in the bottom of the pan. And look at the round brick tower, the Tepsi Minare: it was a minaret before somebody hung a clock inside it, a clock the town will tell you came from the British in the nineteenth century. That is repurposing at the highest level. That is using the stockpot as the stockpot. I have made a career out of the second use of things, and a Muslim tower on an ancient hill keeping British time is the finest example of it I have ever climbed. Mind the ice on those steps.
04

Stop four
Palandoken Mountain
Prince Performance Tennis Socks 3-Pack: Look at that mountain and tell me it is not dusted. The snow up on Palandoken is dry as flour, because the air at this altitude carries almost no moisture, so it does not pack, it sifts. You could sieve it over a cake. They ski it, properly, and it lies well into spring, and Erzurum built the whole town up to host the Winter Universiade in 2011. Now, three things a good kitchen and this mountain have in common: cold, dryness, and no forgiveness. And afterwards you come down off it wanting something soaked in syrup, which happily is the local instinct too, kadayif dolmasi, and I intend to test that theory personally the moment you people stop asking me questions. Sockless in that cold is a crime. I would know. Onward, and downhill, and towards the sugar.
Three pairs of Prince performance tennis socks, and that is the entire pitch — no technology story, no marketing epic, just the item a tennis player runs out of first and notices last. Buying them three at a time is the only sensible way to hold that hand: one pair in the bag, one in the wash, one on your feet, and no morning where the answer is a football sock and regret.
Erzurum will appreciate the arithmetic. This is a city at 1,890 metres with some of the coldest winters in Turkey, where nobody has ever gone out under-equipped and lived to be smug about it. The people here built a madrasa with walls thick enough to sit out a season and then carved flowers into the door anyway.
You'll get use out of these everywhere from a hard court in the city to a long day up at Palandöken, which rises straight off the southern edge of town and held the 2011 Winter Universiade.
And by the way, they're also perfect for an evening at a cağ kebabı house — Erzurum's own horizontal-spit lamb kebab, carved onto a skewer and handed over one at a time — where you will be sitting a great deal longer than you planned and your feet will thank you for the fresh pair.
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