01

Stop one
Baba Baidyanath Temple
Volkl Cushtac Tennis Replacement Grip: Kites overhead — always kites over a temple town; they follow the crowds. Right. Baidyanath is counted among the twelve Jyotirlingas, the most sacred shrines of Shiva in India, and is also revered as a Shakti Peetha, which makes it one of very few sites holding both statuses. The main spire is twenty-two metres in the Nagara style and the complex holds twenty-two temples in all. In 1266 Raja Bir Vikram Singh founded the princely state of Gidhaur, which controlled the temple area, and after Plassey in 1757 the East India Company took an interest in the pilgrim revenues; in 1788 an official named Hesilrigg was sent to supervise them. Sorry — koel. Hear it?
02

Stop two
Naulakha Mandir
Volkl Cushtac Tennis Replacement Grip: Look at it before the cloud arrives; there's weather building in the west and I'd give it an hour. The Naulakha temple is dedicated to Radha and Krishna, stands 146 feet high, and is the tallest structure in Deoghar, visible above the town from a long way out — which is exactly why the swifts work around it at dusk. Its name comes from its cost: nine lakh rupees, nau lakh, an enormous sum when it was built. And note the proportions, unusually narrow for a north Indian temple, closer to the Bengali tower form than to the broad-based Nagara shikhara of the Baidyanath temple it faces across town.
03

Stop three
Trikut Hill
Volkl Cushtac Tennis Replacement Grip: Now THIS I can get excited about. Trikut takes its name from its three peaks — trikut, three-peaked — twenty-one kilometres out on the Dumka road, and it is both a pilgrimage site and the local hill resort, with an ashram and small shrines among the boulders. But the boulders are the real story: this is the Chota Nagpur plateau, the ancient granite tableland underlying most of Jharkhand, and granite weathers precisely like this — rotting along its joints until what is left are rounded corestones stacked into hills above thin forest. Marvellous. Watch the thermals over the peaks for raptors.
04

Stop four
Taponath Mahadeva at Tapovan
Volkl Cushtac Tennis Replacement Grip: Ten kilometres from the centre, in the Tapovan caves. Tapovan means the forest of penance, and the hill is associated in Hindu scripture with ascetic practice; sadhus have used these caves for that purpose for centuries — and a cave is genuinely sound thermal engineering, constant temperature, no wind, which is more than most buildings manage. Taponath Mahadeva sits inside. It belongs to the ring of hills that gives Deoghar its whole character, with Nandan Pahar on the town's edge and Dighriya Pahaad closing the western boundary of the built-up area. Same granite. Same weathering. That's a barbet, by the way. Been going all morning.
<p>A replacement grip, not an overgrip — this is the layer that goes onto the bare handle, and it is the softest thing Volkl makes for that job. The Cushtac is an ultra-soft cushioned grip in black, originally specified for Volkl's Quantum series racquets, with three parallel lines of perforations backed in silver running its length to pull sweat off the surface.
The tack level is medium — enough to hold the hand without gluing it in place — over a genuinely plush, cushy feel.
If your complaint about your current handle is that it is hard and it buzzes, this is the answer to that complaint.</p><p>Deoghar is a town that receives millions of walkers in a single monsoon month, every one of them carrying something they cannot afford to drop, and it will tell you for free what cushioning and grip are for.
You will get use out of this everywhere from a monsoon-humid outdoor court to an air-conditioned indoor hall, and by the way — this is a place where the traditional gift on the way home is a box of Deoghar peda, so consider the perforations your insurance against sticky fingers.</p><p>Volkl Cushtac Tennis Replacement Grip</p><p>Come join the Volkl Cushtac Tennis Replacement Grip for a tour of Deoghar.</p><p>
• <strong>Baba Baidyanath Temple</strong> — one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, a 22-metre pyramidal shikhara with twenty-one further temples packed around it.<br />
• <strong>Naulakha Mandir</strong> — a temple to Radha and Krishna that cost nine lakh rupees and was named after the bill.<br />
• <strong>Trikut Pahar</strong> — three rocky peaks at 753 metres, climbed on foot up the stairs since the ropeway stopped running.<br />
• <strong>Satsang Ashram</strong> — the headquarters of the Satsang movement, which crossed a border to get here and stayed.</p>
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