01

Stop one
Rova of Antananarivo
Wilson Feather Thin Tennis Replacement Grip: Third night. Third. So — highest ridge in the city, and this was the fortified royal compound of the sovereigns of Imerina and later of the Kingdom of Madagascar. The centrepiece, Manjakamiadana, was built in wood in 1839 for Queen Ranavalona I by a French craftsman, Jean Laborde, and then in the 1860s a Scottish missionary architect called James Cameron encased the whole wooden thing in stone. Encased it. Put a case round a palace, which I have been turning over for about nine hours now and — sorry, the compound, yes. It also held the timber palace of Mahitsielafanjaka, the royal tombs, and a chapel added in the 1870s after the court converted to Christianity. Then in November 1995 a fire gutted the complex, days before a planned UNESCO inscription, and much of the collection was destroyed. Days before. Reconstruction has gone on in stages since, and the restored Manjakamiadana is back up there dominating the skyline, visible from absolutely everywhere in this city, which is either enormously comforting or the exact reason I am not sleeping. I have not decided. I have had time.
04

Stop four
Royal Hill of Ambohimanga
Wilson Feather Thin Tennis Replacement Grip: Roughly twenty kilometres northeast, and I have been advised not to drive, which is fair. Ambohimanga: the spiritual heart of the Merina kingdom, inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2001. It was the capital of King Andrianampoinimerina, who unified Imerina in the late eighteenth century and then moved the seat of government to Antananarivo — but this remained the sacred royal city and the burial place. Inside the massive stone ramparts: the king's small timber house, Mahandrihono, later summer pavilions built for Queen Ranavalona I, sacrificial stones, ritual pools, all standing in dense forest protected by taboo. The trees are safe because they are forbidden, which is a better fence than a fence. And the main gate could be sealed by a stone disc several metres across, rolled into place by dozens of men. Dozens. Imagine being the one who has to be certain it is shut. Imagine lying there running through it again. …Yes. I know. People still come here for ancestral ritual, so keep it low — I am a feather-thin grip, I am barely present at all, and even I am too loud for this hill.
Feel that? Nothing. That's the point, champ. Every fighter in my division learns the same lesson the hard way: the weight you carry is weight you have to move, and the guy who moves faster wins the round. I made featherweight by losing things I thought I needed. So did I, in a manner of speaking. There is almost nothing to me, and that is the whole act.
Come on, roadwork. Antananarivo's built on hills, so this is a real session. Up top, the Rova of Antananarivo, the fortified royal compound of the sovereigns of Imerina — Manjakamiadana raised in timber in 1839 for Queen Ranavalona I by Jean Laborde, then encased in stone in the 1860s by the Scottish missionary architect James Cameron.
Fire gutted it in November 1995, days before a planned UNESCO inscription, and it has been rebuilt in stages since. Just below, Andafiavaratra Palace, built in 1873 for Rainilaiarivony, the prime minister who ran Madagascar for three decades and married three successive queens. Pink stucco, central dome, now a museum holding objects rescued from that fire.
Then Andohalo Cathedral, built 1873 to 1890 on the square where Merina sovereigns addressed their people, twin-towered, Gothic revival, and standing close to where Malagasy Christians were executed under Ranavalona I.
And twenty kilometres out, the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga, sacred capital of King Andrianampoinimerina, World Heritage since 2001, its main gate closed by a stone disc several metres across that took dozens of men to roll. Now that is a weight class.
Breathing? Good. The grip, then. It is one of the thinnest made — Wilson's own word for it is super thin — and it is a replacement, so it goes onto the bare handle in place of the factory wrap rather than over the top of it.
The finish stays tacky despite the minimal build, so security does not disappear along with the bulk, and players commonly find it drops a handle by around half a grip size, which is useful if your racquet always felt a touch too fat in the palm.
Carry it everywhere from the stairways below the cathedral to the top of the royal hill and you will not notice you are carrying anything. It is also perfect for a city that keeps its most important things up the steepest streets, where only the light travellers arrive in any condition to enjoy them.
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