03

Stop three
La Sebastiana
Dunlop CX Club Tennis Bag (6 Racquet): Five narrow floors stacked up a hillside — a difficult site, and that was rather the point. Pablo Neruda, Chile's Nobel Prize-winning poet, bought the unfinished house and inaugurated it in September 1961 because he wanted somewhere that felt as if it floated above the bay, and that brief can only be met with a very small footprint and a great deal of vertical circulation. He filled it with carousel horses, ships in bottles, maps, coloured glass, and a bar from which only he was allowed to pour, and spent every New Year's Eve there watching the fireworks over the harbour. The house was ransacked after the 1973 military coup, in the days around Neruda's death, and stood damaged for years until the Neruda Foundation restored it and opened it as a museum in 1991.
04

Stop four
Palacio Baburizza
Dunlop CX Club Tennis Bag (6 Racquet): Now look at what this one is standing over, because a good part of it is cantilevered straight out across a slope, and that is genuinely awkward to detail. They got it right. Built in 1916 on the Paseo Yugoslavo of Cerro Alegre for the Zanelli family and acquired soon after by Pascual Baburizza, a Croatian immigrant who made a fortune in the nitrate trade that powered Chile's economy in the early twentieth century. The architects Arnaldo Barison and Renato Schiavon worked in an Art Nouveau style rare in Chile: asymmetrical towers, curved balconies, hammered-copper details. And do note the copper, because hammered copper is its own weatherproofing — no coating, no maintenance schedule, it simply oxidises and then protects itself for the next hundred years. Sea air. A century. Still there. Baburizza bequeathed his European and Chilean painting collection to the city, and since 1971 the palace has housed the Municipal Museum of Fine Arts, reopened in 2012 after a long restoration. The paintings are very fine. The roof is finer.
What is a bag, if not a stanza with a zipper? (I've been workshopping that one.) The Dunlop CX Club 6 Racquet bag holds, as the name confesses with admirable economy, up to six racquets in its generous main compartment — six!
a sonnet's worth of sestets — along with an accessory pocket for grips and dampeners and the small consolations of this life, and a padded, adjustable shoulder strap for the long walk between matches, which is, of course, a metaphor. Lightweight polyester construction. Bold CX styling in black and red, the colors of ink and of the heart.
It carries everything except, alas, my unfinished manuscript.
It lives in Valparaiso, Chile, and honestly, of course it does. This is the port city of tumbling hills and creaking funiculars where Pablo Neruda kept La Sebastiana, his house above the bay, filled with carousel horses and ships in bottles, where he watched the fireworks every New Year's Eve.
A Nobel laureate lived here and I can't get published in the club newsletter — but I digress. Ride the Ascensor Concepcion, the oldest of the hill elevators, running since 1883, and let it lift you and your six racquets the way a good line lifts a poem. Stand in Plaza Sotomayor where Chile buried its naval heroes. Feel things. That's free, unlike everything else.
Six racquets is a club player's whole quiver, a coach's whole afternoon, a doubles team's whole hope. You will carry it everywhere from a morning hit down by the port to a hillside court above the bay, and it is also perfect for a slow ride up the Ascensor Concepcion with your whole quiver on your shoulder, which is the closest this city comes to a rhyme.
The bag carries it all without complaint, which is more than I can say for myself.
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