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Stop four
Balai Nobat
Head Lynx 16g Tennis String Set: A TOWER BUILT ENTIRELY TO STORE A BAND'S GEAR. 1906, octagonal, gold dome, and it exists for exactly one reason: the nobat, the sacred royal orchestra of the Kedah sultanate. Drums, gongs, wind instruments, played ONLY at coronations and royal weddings, a court music tradition Kedah has kept for centuries. The instruments count as royal regalia, so no, you cannot go up, and no, you cannot have a go on the drums. I asked. Best flight case in Asia. Zahir Mosque there, Balai Besar there, state gallery there. GREATEST four minutes of walking in Malaysia.
Everything is percussion if you listen properly. Ball on string is a snare; frame is the room. Head Lynx 16g is tuned for a tight snare: a co-polyester monofilament at 1.30 mm, the durable gauge of Head's balanced poly, supplied as a 12-metre set for one racquet.
Thicker means firmer, longer-lasting and lower-powered, and it keeps its shape through a hard week — which is what you want if your swing is fast and your strings keep dying young.
Alor Setar has a royal percussion section, so obviously that is where this ends.
We begin at the Zahir Mosque, opened in 1912, one of the oldest and grandest mosques in Malaysia and the state mosque of Kedah. Built in a graceful Moorish style, it is crowned by five black domes representing the five pillars of Islam, their dark curves striking against pale walls, and it stands on royal ground in the heart of the city, directly across from the sultanate's ceremonial buildings.
Then the Balai Besar, the Great Hall, ceremonial audience hall of the Kedah sultanate — one of the oldest Malay royal houses in the world. A wooden hall was first commissioned on this site in 1735, and after invaders destroyed it the hall was rebuilt on a grander scale, the present structure blending traditional Malay architecture with Thai influences reflecting Kedah's centuries under Siamese suzerainty.
Then the Alor Setar Tower, completed in the 1990s, at 165.5 metres dominating the skyline. Its observation deck gives the definitive view: the vast flat expanse of paddy fields that earned Kedah its title as the Rice Bowl of Malaysia, stretching toward the limestone hills.
And now the Balai Nobat, built in 1906 — a slender octagonal tower crowned with a golden dome, constructed for one purpose: to house the nobat, the sacred royal orchestra of the Kedah sultanate. Its drums, gongs and wind instruments are played only on solemn state occasions such as coronations and royal weddings.
One set tunes the same room everywhere from an indoor hall in Alor Setar to an open court out among the Kedah paddy, and the snare stays tight in both. It is also perfect for the week you play every evening and refuse to restring, which is exactly what the durable gauge is there for. The Balai Nobat only sounds on state occasions, so we go and stand under it instead.
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