02

Stop two
Bangalore Palace
Head Lynx 18g Tennis String Reel: [hand to the heart] Oh, this is a PERFORMANCE. Built in the 1870s — Tudor revival, and it commits absolutely: fortified towers, battlements, Gothic windows, the entire English medieval costume, reportedly inspired by Windsor Castle, and staged here in wooded grounds in the middle of a warm and generous city. Somebody looked at a cold damp northern fortress and thought: yes. That. But with the weather rewritten. [dropping the voice] Inside, dark wood, hunting trophies, Victoriana laid on thick. And it WORKS, that is what undoes me. It is a building playing a part it was never born to, with total conviction, in front of an audience that knows exactly what it is watching. There is no higher craft. I am not crying. The turrets are.
Thin base. Always thin. Head Lynx 18g is the thin base of the range: a co-polyester monofilament at 1.20 mm, the finest gauge of Head's balanced poly, on a 200-metre reel — 660 feet, roughly sixteen racquets. Thinner string cuts into the ball more sharply and snaps back faster, which means more spin and far more feel.
Bengaluru, then. Start at the bottom of it. We begin on the Lalbagh Rock: peninsular gneiss, roughly three thousand million years old, one of the oldest surfaces you will ever stand on, and on top of it one of the four watchtowers Kempe Gowda's son raised in 1597 to mark how far the city would ever be allowed to grow. It grew past them.
Around the rock lies Lalbagh itself, laid out from about 1760 under Hyder Ali and finished by Tipu Sultan, with the cast-iron Glass House of 1889 in the middle of it, modelled on the Crystal Palace.
Then Bangalore Palace, built in the 1870s: a Tudor-revival castle with battlements, turrets and Gothic windows, reportedly inspired by Windsor, dropped into a city where it is twenty-eight degrees and pleasant. Dark wood inside, hunting trophies, a great deal of Victoriana. It is a palace doing an impression, and it commits to the bit entirely, which I respect professionally.
Then Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace, two storeys of teak on stone, finished in 1791: carved pillars, painted ceilings, arch after arch and almost no wall anywhere — a building designed to be as thin as it could get away with, still standing after two hundred years.
And we finish at Vidhana Soudha, completed in 1956, four storeys of Bangalore granite in the Neo-Dravidian style with a dome on top and Government's Work is God's Work carved over the entrance, permanently, above the head of every civil servant arriving on a Monday morning.
You will cut off this reel everywhere from a court in Cubbon Park to an indoor hall on a wet Bengaluru evening, and by the way, it is also perfect for a city that plays early, because the good courts here go at six in the morning and are gone by half past.
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