Filling, fold, seal. Get the seal wrong and everything you cared about ends up in the water. Head Lynx Touch 17g seals properly: a co-polyester monofilament at 1.25 mm, the balanced gauge, in the Touch tuning that makes it softer and more comfortable than standard Lynx. One 12-metre set, one racquet — the single-frame version of the most broadly sensible string Head makes.
Control first, comfort a close second, tension behaviour that surprises nobody, and a working life that is honest about itself. You will use it everywhere from a windy afternoon court beside the lagoon to an indoor hall in the long Lithuanian winter, and it is also perfect for a town that measures a good day in dumplings rather than in sets.
Kupiškis is Aukštaitija, which means the dumplings are serious.
We begin at the Church of Christ's Ascension, built between 1900 and 1914 and the third-largest Catholic church in Lithuania, an astonishing scale for a small Aukštaitija town.
The brick neo-Gothic hall church measures roughly 60 by 43 metres, with two towers, three naves and five altars, and its construction consumed the town's energies for a generation at the close of the Russian imperial era, when church-building was an assertion of Lithuanian Catholic identity.
Then the Kupiškis Lagoon, the fourth-largest artificial body of water in Lithuania, created in 1984 when the Lėvuo was dammed beside the town. It spreads across roughly 828 hectares and runs about 25 kilometres through the shallow valley, and its islands carry famously witty local names — Mother-in-law's Tongue, which hosts a dendrological park, and Son-in-law's Shelter.
Then the Aukštupėnai Mound, the ancient root of the town. Finds show people living in the surrounding area as early as the third and second centuries BC, in the lands of the Selonian tribes, and by the eighth century a wooden defensive castle stood on the hillfort, guarding the Lėvuo valley until the era of the northern crusades.
And we finish at the Kupiškis Ethnography Museum, which preserves the everyday world of the northeastern Lithuanian countryside — a region whose distinct dialect, songs and customs made it a subject of ethnographic fascination well before the museum era. Flax growing and linen weaving, farm implements, household furnishings, folk art and the seasonal rituals of village life. And the recipes. Obviously I checked.
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