01

Stop one
Atlas Lion Stone Sculpture (Ifrane Lion)
Nike Court Slam Men's Tennis Polo: Okay the light here is INSANE, everyone get this. The stone lion of Ifrane, carved from a single block — one block, no seams, that is the content right there — is the emblem of this Middle Atlas hill town and its most photographed monument. Most photographed. I did not set that record but I fully intend to contribute. Its origins are debated, which is giving mystery, and mystery performs: one enduring account holds that a German prisoner carved it during the Second World War, when Ifrane briefly held prisoners of war, reputedly in exchange for his freedom, while another attributes it to a French sculptor working in the 1930s. Two origin stories, zero receipts. The lion is widely understood to commemorate the Atlas lion, the great North African subspecies whose last wild individuals were shot in the region in the early 20th century — and that is not a caption, that one you just sit with for a second. Whatever its authorship, it has watched over Ifrane's lawns since the French-era town's early decades.
02

Stop two
Royal Palace of Ifrane
Nike Court Slam Men's Tennis Polo: This is giving Alps and I am obsessed. Ifrane was established in 1928 by the French Protectorate administration as a hill station where European residents could escape the summer heat, laid out with chalets, gardens and steep-roofed alpine architecture unique in Morocco — an entire town built as an aesthetic, in 1928, before any of us were doing that. As part of the new resort, a royal palace was built in the 1930s for Sultan Mohammed ben Youssef, the future King Mohammed V, serving as a mountain residence and hunting lodge at more than 1,600 metres of altitude. Sixteen hundred metres. The palace remains a residence of the Moroccan royal family and is closed to visitors, so no, we are not doing a walkthrough, phones down, we shoot from exactly here. But its green-tiled roofs among the cedars, often under winter snow, are the entire reason they call this the Switzerland of Morocco. Green, white, dark green. That is a palette.
03

Stop three
Al Akhawayn University
Nike Court Slam Men's Tennis Polo: Campus content, and campus content always performs. Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane was founded by royal decree in 1993 and opened its doors to students in January 1995. Its name, meaning the two brothers, honours its founding benefactors, King Hassan II of Morocco and King Fahd of Saudi Arabia, who endowed the project jointly — a collab between two kings, and the naming on it is immaculate, no notes. The university is organised on the American liberal-arts model with English as the language of instruction, a novelty in the Moroccan system, and its steep-roofed campus architecture echoes the alpine style of the surrounding town, so the whole place matches, and you have no idea how rare that is. Drawing students from across Morocco, Africa and beyond, it has made the small mountain resort of Ifrane an international university town at the edge of the cedar forests. Golden hour on those roofs. Saving that one.
04

Stop four
Ifrane National Park
Nike Court Slam Men's Tennis Polo: Nature carousel, swipe through, this is the good part of the trip. Ifrane National Park, established in 2004, protects the forests and plateaus of the Middle Atlas around the town of Ifrane, including some of the world's most important stands of Atlas cedar, the great conifer emblematic of Morocco's mountains. The park shelters the largest remaining populations of the Barbary macaque, the endangered monkey endemic to North Africa and Gibraltar — endangered, so we look, we do not feed, we do not pose with them, that is the whole rule and it is not negotiable — along with wild boar, raptors, and seasonal wetland lakes such as Dayet Aoua that attract migratory birds. Within and around the park stood famous individual trees such as the Gouraud Cedar, long a visitor attraction. A single tree with a following. Respect. The park makes Ifrane a base for hiking, birdwatching and winter snow excursions in cedar country. Four seasons, one location, genuinely no filter.
One hundred per cent polyester, in a jacquard knit with a smooth hand and four-way stretch, carrying Nike's Dri-FIT ADV moisture management. Lightweight, breathable, and engineered so it does not cling when it gets wet — which, I ask you, is the only quality that actually matters in a shirt once the second set starts.
The construction is where this one earns its place in the bag. The sleeve seams have been moved forward onto the front of the shoulder so they follow the curve of the arm rather than sitting on the joint, which is a small thing until you have served two hundred times.
The back panel is engineered separately for airflow.
Ribbed cuffs, and an extended hem at the back so it stays where you put it when you bend for a low ball.
Ifrane is an extraordinary place to test a shirt, and nobody warned me how extraordinary.
It is a town of red-roofed alpine chalets over 1,650 metres up in the Middle Atlas, built by the French administration in 1928 as a hill station, with cedar forest and Barbary macaques on three sides — and it holds the continental record for the lowest temperature ever recorded in Africa, minus 23.9 degrees, on the eleventh of February 1935.
Then in July it is warm and dry and brilliant. You will use this everywhere from a morning court under the cedars at Ifrane to a hard afternoon on the coast at Casablanca, and by the way — it is also perfect for the mint tea afterwards, poured from a height into a glass on a terrace, which in Morocco is not a refreshment but an appointment.
Buy on Amazon