01

Stop one
Šarena Džamija (the Painted Mosque)
Yonex Junior 23 2025 Tennis Racquet: Right, I have questions. The foundation is dated 1438. It is also dated 1495. Those are not the same century and I would like somebody to pick one. What I will accept without a fight: it was founded by two Ottoman women, the sisters Hurshida and Mensure Hatun, and their tomb is standing right there in the garden, which is about as close to a receipt as a fifteenth-century foundation ever gets. The painting is 1833, Abdurrahman Pasha, the Ottoman governor of Tetovo, who rebuilt it and gave it the decoration you are looking at. Now, the egg. I was fully prepared to file 'they bound the pigments with huge quantities of egg' under charming local nonsense — and then I found it in contemporary accounts, inside and out, and I am delighted to be wrong. Most elaborately painted Ottoman mosque in the Balkans. Protected as a cultural monument. No objection from me.
02

Stop two
Arabati Baba Teḱe
Yonex Junior 23 2025 Tennis Racquet: 'The finest surviving Bektashi dervish lodge in Europe.' That is a superlative, and superlatives are where I start digging. So: the complex grew up around the türbe of the Ottoman dervish Sersem Ali Baba, originally built in 1538. The grounds and buildings you are standing in are largely 1799, when a waqf endowment provided by Recep Pasha established the enclosure — and note that a waqf is a documented endowment, meaning there is paperwork, meaning I am content. Prayer rooms, dining halls, lodgings, guest quarters, all of it set among gardens. I arrived intending to downgrade 'finest in Europe' to 'perfectly nice.' Having walked the whole compound, I withdraw that. And it is still a place of pilgrimage, which is the one thing no plaque can manufacture.
03

Stop three
Tetovo Fortress (Baltepe Kale)
Yonex Junior 23 2025 Tennis Racquet: Here at last is a claim I can test by looking. Construction began in 1820 under Abdurrahman Pasha — yes, the same governor who rebuilt the Painted Mosque, I checked, it is the same man — on the hill called Baltepe above the town. The plans ran to a guest house, kitchens, a dining hall, a dungeon and a fountain. Now look around at what is actually up here, because it was never fully completed, and for once the ruin and the record agree with each other exactly. It is an archaeological site, protected as a cultural monument, reached by a road climbing from the town. I want the record to show that I climbed it rather than taking anyone's word for the view.
04

Stop four
Čifte Hamam (the Bey's Hamam)
Yonex Junior 23 2025 Tennis Racquet: 'Čifte' means double, and this is the rare case of a name that is a testable statement about the building — separate sections for men and women — and the building passes. Late fifteenth or early sixteenth century, which is vague, but it is vague in the honest direction, and it still makes this among the earliest Ottoman buildings in Tetovo. It is not a bath any more; it houses the Tetovo Art Gallery. It stands directly across the Pena from the Šarena Džamija, and one of the three historic stone bridges over the river — itself listed as a cultural heritage object — crosses between the two. That last one you can verify by walking it, which is my favourite category of fact.
I letter by hand, and the trick is that everything must be sized to the wall it lives on. Too big and it shouts; too small and nobody reads it. Racquets are identical. The Yonex Junior 23 is specified by Yonex for players of roughly 110 to 125 cm: a 23-inch frame with a 98 sq in head, weighing 200 g / 7.1 oz, with a 16×17 string pattern, prestrung and ready to play.
That head size gives a seven- or eight-year-old a genuinely forgiving target, while the weight stays low enough that technique develops instead of compensations.
The Šarena Džamija — the Painted Mosque — was founded by two Ottoman women, the sisters Hurshida and Mensure Hatun, whose tomb stands in its garden; the foundation is variously dated 1438 and 1495, and it was rebuilt and given its present painted decoration in 1833 by Abdurrahman Pasha. Every surface. Painted. By hand.
Tetovo is a painted town and I have come a long way to see it.
The Arabati Baba Teḱe grew around the türbe of the dervish Sersem Ali Baba, originally built in 1538, with its present grounds and buildings dating largely from 1799 under a waqf endowment from Recep Pasha, and it is generally described as the finest complex of its kind in the region.
Tetovo Fortress on the Baltepe hill was begun in 1820 by the same Abdurrahman Pasha and never fully completed. And the Čifte Hamam, a late fifteenth or early sixteenth century double bathhouse, now houses the Tetovo Art Gallery.
A frame this size goes everywhere from a school hall in town to a cracked outdoor court under the Šar mountains, and by the way, it is also perfect for the flat ground below the Baltepe hill, where a child can miss forty balls in a row and nobody is counting.
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