They are not stupid, they are fast, and you learn that difference quickly and painfully. Head Lynx 17g is fast too: a co-polyester monofilament at 1.25 mm, the balanced gauge of Head's balanced poly, on a 200-metre reel — 660 feet, roughly sixteen racquets.
Seventeen gauge is where most players land: enough bite for spin, enough body to last, and Lynx keeps decent tension behaviour for a poly, which matters a great deal more than people admit. Control and bite, without going dead by Wednesday.
Kharkhorin. Take water. We are covering ground today.
We begin at Erdene Zuu Monastery, a walled square roughly four hundred metres a side with one hundred and eight stupas along the top of the wall and Chinese-style temple halls inside on open grassland. Abtai Sain Khan founded it in 1585, partly out of stone carted from the ruins of Karakorum, and at its height it held over sixty temples and a thousand monks.
In the purges of 1937 the government destroyed most of the monasteries in the country and executed thousands of monks; this one was closed and largely stripped, though a portion was preserved as a museum. Religious activity resumed in 1990 and UNESCO inscribed the site in 2004.
Then out onto the steppe to the stone turtles of Karakorum — weathered granite tortoises about two metres long sitting alone in the grass, shells worn smooth, heads barely defined.
Four originally marked the corners of Karakorum, the capital Ögedei Khan founded in 1235 as the administrative centre of the Mongol Empire, and they were the bases for inscribed memorial stelae, the tortoise standing for longevity.
William of Rubruck reached the city in 1254 and recorded its palace, its foreign quarters, its mosques and churches and a silver fountain tree made by a captured goldsmith from Paris. Kublai moved the capital to Khanbaliq and Ming forces destroyed Karakorum in 1380. Two turtles are what is left. They are still upright. So are we.
Then the Kharkhorum Museum on the edge of town, opened in 2011 with Japanese funding to hold what has come out of the ground since German and Mongolian archaeologists began work in 1999: glazed roof tiles, Chinese and Persian ceramics, coins from across Eurasia, iron tools, fragments of wall painting, and a reconstructed section of the great hall's floor.
Goods from China, Central Asia, Persia and Europe all arrived at one capital, whose population ran to Muslim merchants, Nestorian Christians, Buddhist monks and craftsmen taken captive from conquered cities.
And we finish uphill at the Kharkhorin Rock, a stone carved into an unmistakable phallus lying tilted on the slope and pointing at a cleft in the hills opposite. The local account is that it kept the monks' minds on their vows and countered the influence of the hillside across the valley. It stands inside the Orkhon Valley cultural landscape, inscribed by UNESCO in 2004 for its layered nomadic history.
You will work through this reel everywhere from a windblown court in Kharkhorin to an indoor hall in Ulaanbaatar three hundred kilometres east, and by the way, it is also perfect for a bowl of airag out on the Orkhon in summer, which will do more for your recovery than anything I can shout at you.
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